On the 20th, we started our trip to Rameswaram. The 21st would be the one-year anniversary of my Grandmother's death. We had to perform her last rites and we were going to do it at Rameswaram. Rameswaram is 12 hours away by car. So my dad, my mom, my uncle, my aunt, my grand-uncle, my grand-aunt and I settled in for the ride. The ride up there wasn't all that bad, and before we knew it, we were there. Rameswaram isn't much more than a little fishing village. It is also an island that is off the eastern coast of India, in the state of Tamil Nadu. Rameswaram has a legend behind it. The legend is that when Rama and Lakshmana returned from Lanka after killing Ravana, they had to perform a certain ritual to rid themselves of the curse (actually, dosham in Malayalam or Sanskrit) of killing a Brahmin. To do this, they had to perform a certain prayer to Lord Shiva. However, there was no Shiva Lingam available. So Rama asked Hanuman to fly to Mount Kailasa and secure some Lingams from Lord Shiva. Hanuman made his way to Mount Kailasa, but was unable to find Lord Shiva. So he sat down in meditation and prayed to Lord Shiva. Meanwhile, the appointed time for the prayer was drawing near and the Rishis (Sages) told Rama that he would have to perform the prayer soon. Rama's wife Sita was playing with some sand on the shore of the beach, fashioning a Lingam out of the sand. The Rishis said that the sand Lingam would be sufficient for the prayer. So Rama, Lakshmana, and Sita prayed to get rid of the curse. At the end of the prayer, Hanuman arrived. He was able to get two Lingams from Shiva. When he saw that the prayer had already been completed, and that they already had a Lingam, he was a little disappointed. Rama told Hanuman that he was welcome to place the Shiva Lingam that he got from Mount Kailas in place of the sand Lingam, if he would be able to remove it. Hanuman tried his best, but was unable to budge the sand Lingam. Embarassed, he turned to Rama. Rama said that the two Lingams Hanuman brought from Mount Kailasa could be placed around the sand Lingam, and that worshippers would have to pray to stone Lingam first before praying to the sand Lingam. The temple itself is amazing. When you first enter the temple, you're in a corridoor that goes all the way around the temple - so it's in the shape of a rectangle. The corridoor is one formed of pillars - hundreds of them stretching into the distance. The architecture is absolutely amazing. I was in awe when I saw the intricate designs on the pillars, the beautiful carvings on the walls. I tried to imagine how it was when the temple was just getting built. I'd look at a sculpture and try to imagine the artisan or the sculpturer who carved it - what he was thinking as he carved it. I tried to imagine all the different kinds of people who walked by and stood in the same spot that I was standing now. I always feel like this when I go to any sort of historical site - or anything that is of great antiquity. The first evening, we went to the temple and prayed. Next morning, we went to perform the last rites for my Grandmother. This was done at this particular pond. We sat on the steps of the pond while a priest made us recite Sanskrit prayers. As I've grown older, the idea of having a priest to convey your prayers to God/Higher Power/Whathaveyou has always struck me as strange. Why do you need one? What's the difference in the prayers you pray to God on your own, versus the one the priest does for you? As the priest was reciting the various mantras and having us perform different rituals, I wondered about their significance.
After the ritual, we made our way to the temple, where we made our way through 22 different "wells" (under-ground water sources forming a network under the temple. Some are freshwater, while others are saltwater). At each of these wells, our guide (yes, a guide through the temple) would take water and pour it over us. After that we went to the main altar, where the priest was supposed to say some prayers. But while he was doing it, he was also arguing with some other guy who was there. Also as it turned out, because we had paid the "Special Entrance Fee", we could make it to the "Special Entry Area", which was closer to the altar. What I'm trying to say is that, the whole deal at Rameswaram seemed to be more of a business than anything religious. I guess I was expecting some sort of serene experience, maybe something divine. At the very least, I expected the temple to be run like a temple - not a business. The whole deal with the "Special Entry Area" put me off. Basically it means that only those are willing or able to pay, can make it close to the altar. Not the others. As if God would care about how much money you have. I've had better experiences at the temples in my hometown. Well, after all that, we headed back home and made it back by about 10 at night. I stayed up for a little while chilling with my sister and with Dipu Cheta and Simi Chechi.
Awesome post Viv. Awesome..
That was a nice vacation which you enjoyed. Your blog is quite interesting and informative. I appreciate your flair for writing as well.
nice pics!
Hey bro! lol jp my brother’s name is vivin too. that’s tight. he doesnt really like his name, tho.
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Was reading on the ancestry of the Nairs, when I got to see your website. How did you get all this material? Its wonderful. I am a Nair myself, have to check my Tharavad from my parents. Was born in North India so have very little idea of Nairs and their history. Parents are settled in Perumbavoor, so still do get to see Kerala once a year. Am based in Singapore now. Would be nice to keep in touch.
Vivin
One thing i forgot to ask you. you made that article on nairs??? If so 2 points to note:
1.Nairs were never classified into kshatriyas, vaishyas and shudras.
2.Villakithala, velluthedathu and Chakkala nairs are not true nairs. No nair would knowingly prefer a marriage alliance with these castes.
Rest is in my posting in Discussion
Raksh
Hallo Vivin
No comments from yu about my posting in ‘Nairs’ in Discussion. Do you know anand Paliyath presently working as a scientist in NPOL
Raks
Hello Raksh,
Sorry for the delay. Being in Iraq, my internet access is rather limited.
While it is true that I was the one who initially wrote the article, it has changed over time due to the fact that Wikipedia is a collaborative effort. A lot of people have made changes. Furthermore, I haven’t been monitoring the article lately, so I cannot tell you much about the new changes.
As far as your first point goes, I agree with you completely. The Kerala caste system was completely different from the rest of India. While the Nairs were the ruling class, the highly orthodox Namboothiris still considered them to be untouchable due to the fact that they considered anyone lower (according to them) than their caste, untouchable. In fact, even other Brahmins (Iyers, for example) were considered untouchable by the Namboothiris. In that sense, you are correct – the Nairs were never classified into Kshathriya, Vaishya, or Sudra. However, I was merely trying to show a comparative analysis.
As far as your second point, I am no authority on it, and therefore, cannot comment.
If it is the Anand Paliath I think you are talking about, then I haven’t met him in person, but we did talk online once. What is NPOL, by the way?
Some comments
NPOL is National Physical Oceanographic Laboratory.
2.About my second point in my last mail, it is well known. You can ask anybody, anand for instance (No that he need be an expert. i just want to indicate that the idea is common place). You’ve been out of the country for long, I suppose. Then why are these castes (like Veluthedathu, Vellakithala, Chakkala Nairs etc.) not members of Nair Service Society (NSS), the premier organisation of the community?? On the other hand, they have their own associations like Villakkithala nair Samajam etc.NSS is in forefront in the criticism of the present reservation system of the government which it feels affects badly the members of the Nair community; these communities, meanwhile all belong to the Other Backward Category (OBC)enjoying the benefits of reservation system.
3.Parasurama may be a myth. But the very edifice of the caste structure and scriptures in every religion rests on mythological premises.So should you axe the Axe-Rama (Axe is Parasu in Sanskrit)? RAKS
Raks,
Like I said, I do not know enough about that point to comment. I did not add that information. You may remove it if you wish, as long as you provide proper documentation and references to support the change.
I believe that the caste system originated as a system for the division of labour. The myths were most probably added later to give it religious legitimacy. No doubt, certain parties had vested interests. However, using a myth to explain the origin of the Nairs doesn’t really get us anywhere. You can add the information if you wish, but probably want to phrase in a way such that it is evident to the reader that the legend/myth of Nairs removing their poonollu to escape Parashurama is just that – a myth. It may or may not have happened. The real reason may be something else, and the myth may have been created over time to explain it. We do not know, and therefore you cannot state it as a “Theory of Origin”.
Please continue further discussion on my Talk Page at Wikipedia.
hai vivin we both have the same name . iam glad to; meet you please be in contact with me lets we rock and roll
Yo man…
check you e-mail!! I finally got some picture of you from our last trip to the pool. You almost killed me remember???? The worst driver ever!! Don;t take it hard, I still love you man.
I should be dropping by in BIAP shortly so I’ll definitely come visit you.
PS: did you get your movies back?
Hello Vivin….
Happened to go through this post…..Have to say it was an absolute delight to read….Nice pics too….Looking forward to reading more in the future…..Keep up the good work….Cheers !!
Tamir,
WHATEVER DUDE! Ok, in all fairness, that was my first time driving from BIAP to the IZ and back! Hahaha! Hey, I got that picture of you in the gunner’s turret too. Yeah Ortiz has my movies – I just haven’t gotten them from him yet. Stay safe in Ramadi!
Merin,
Glad you enjoyed the post – I try to update as often as I can. I’m working on one to put here within the next few days!
Hi again.I had posted a comment a few months back.I’m at university now-university of British Columbia in vancouver.Thankfully the experience is’nt too scary.I mean,the day before i got here,i was totally freaking out.The place is huge,but i’m settling down.I find your journal quite interesting.I was in India too in august before we moved to canada.
I’m doing Anthropology and lots of other courses here.According to my textbook,nairs are classified under Kshathriyas.I am a Nair and have often heard others classify it under shudhra. So,which is it?!! i have’nt located your article yet.
Anyway,your pictures and descriptions of kerala did make me feel a little home-sick.Kerala has to be one place that sucks you in with all it’s vigour and energy,and yet when you’re out,you’re so much more of yourself.Maybe it has to do with truly indentifying yourself and fitting in completely with the people. You should visit the Guruvayoor temple.Even with all the madness in the crowd,(some women can really push and squeeze through crowds!)it’s truly liberating to be so close to god.
Anyway,take care!
hi,
juat saw you and raks talking about me.. i am anand. i work in npol. naval physical and oceanographic lab. juat wanted to say hai… happy holi and easter